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Mount Everest North Face Expedition

Mount Everest North Face Expedition

The Tibetan name for Mount Everest is “Chomolangma” which means “Saint Mother”. It has been in common use by Tibetans for centuries (BEFORE 1733 A.D). The height of Everest is 8848m. It was after the years and years of calculation and was announced by GREAT TRIGONOMETRIC SURVEY OF INDIA in 1856.

This peak was previously know as Peak XV to the western world. Then In 1865, Everest was given its official English name by Andrew wough. He was the British surveyor General of India. He recommended this name after his ancestor former chief, Sir George Everest. Andrew was send to Nepal by Sir George Everest for study of the peak.Only in the early 1960s, the Nepalese government gave Mount Everest the official name “sagarmatha”. There are 15 recognized route for climbing Mt. Everest.

Base Camp (17,000 ft /5666m) to Advanced Base Camp (ABC) (21,300 ft/6400m) It’s about 20 km from BC to ABC which involves hiking on boulders, ice and snow. Normally, we stop at an interim camp on the first day for acclimatization purpose. The next day we arrive at the ABC by following the Rongbuk Glacier. ABC lies under the slopes of Changtse Mountain on the northwestern side moraine of East Rongbuk Glacier. ABC serves as the primary high camp home for the rest of expedition period. 

ABC to Camp 1 (23,000 ft/7000m) :Climb steadily toward the Camp 1. There will be one steep section of 60 degrees that will feel vertical. Clip into the fixed rope and use their ascenders. Descend by using rappelling. Place a few ladders over deep crevasses. Camp 1 or the North Col is a 2,200 ft climb from ABC. Depending upon acclimatizing and weather, it takes between 5 to 7 hours from ABC to Camp 1.
Camp 2 to Camp 3 (25,600 ft/7900m) : Extremely windy Climb. Tents on small rock ledges. the wind is usually blocked by the North Face of Everest At camp 3. Takes between 3 to 6 hours to reach Camp 3. Since, we are now almost at 8000m, it’s recommended to sleep on supplemental oxygen.
Camp 3 to Camp 4 (27,390 ft/8300m) :Follow the fixed rope through a snow filled gully; part of the Yellow Band. Take a small ramp and reach the northeast ridge proper. Camp 4 is a short rest stop. Have some food and water, perhaps a short nap and start for the summit.
 Summit day begins leaving tents in the still of the night, you clamber up a faint gully that leads to the ridge above. This line through the rocks is steeper than those traversed the day before, but the fixed ropes help lift you toward the skyline. Some scrambling will land you on the ridge at over 8,500 meters. The only thing now between you and the top is roughly 400 meters of ascent, three rock steps, and over a kilometer of ridge – the ultimate tightrope! As dawn breaks, you will see the awesome Kangshung Face falling off to your left – a mind-boggling drop into Tibet. For the main section, you remain on the right flank and traverse easily in places, but the route is punctuated by the first, second and third steps. The hardest of these is the second, which has a ladder and fixed rope to allow an ascent, which would be virtually impossible otherwise. Additionally, you can expect an airy traverse en route to gaining the top. Finally, you step onto the mountain yields and final summit snowfield previously witnessed from miles below, heralding your arrival to the Top of the World. 


Spring

  • MAXIMUM:

    62 Days
  • ENTRY:

    Zhangmu (Nyalam)
  • EXIT:

    Zhangmu (Nyalam)

Mount Everest North Face Expedition Itinerary

Day 01  :                                    Arrival in Kathmandu and transfer to hotel 
Day 02-03  :                               Visa document application and Preparation for Expedition 
Day 04  :          Drive from Kathmandu to Nyalam 3700m 
Day 05  :          Rest day at Nyalam for acclimatization 
Day 06  :          Drive from Nyalam to Tingri 4300m 
Day 07  :          Rest day at Tingri for acclimatization 
Day 08  :          Drive from Tingri to Base Camp 5000m 
Day 09  :          Rest day at Base Camp for acclimatization 
Day 10  :          Base Camp to Middle Camp 5700m 
Day 11  :          Middle Camp to Advance Base Camp of Everest 6400m 
                    Day 12 - 57  :          Climbing Period for Mt. Everest North Face 8848m 
Day 58 :           Return to Base Camp 
Day 59 :           Leave Tibet 
Day 60 :           Arrive in Kathmandu 
Day 61 :           Rest and shopping day 
Day 62 :           Transfer for Final Departure  

 

 DETAILED ITINERARY
Day 01 : Arrival in Kathmandu and transfer to hotel
We welcome and receive you in Tribhuwan International Airport, Kathmandu and transfer you to the Hotel for overnight stay. At evening you’ll join with us dinner program in typical Nepali Restaurant. Hotel (BD)
 
Day 02-03 : Visa document application and Preparation for Expedition
These day we are busy for briefing about expedition, documentation, visa application, last minute shopping and preparation for departure to expedition. We’ll also introduce to our Nepali crew coming with you for expedition. Hotel. BLD
 
 Day 04 : Drive from Kathmandu to Nyalam (3750m)
Begin Expedition with Bus drive till Nyalam, Tibet via crossing Nepal- China friendship bridge. We’ll meet liaison office at the border, leave our Kathmandu bus then organize truck and jeep ride for Tibetan Side until the base camp. Officials checks for the permit, visa etc. Overnight at Hotel. BLD
 
Day 05 : Rest day at Nyalam for acclimatization
Today is the rest day for acclimatization in order to cope our body with heights. Walk in the surrounding hills, hang out around. Overnight at hotel, BLD
 
Day 06 : Drive from Nyalam to Tingri 4340m
After breakfast, drive 4-5 hour drive to reach Tingri. Overnight at hotel. BLD
 
Day 07 : Rest day at Tingri for acclimatization
Rest & Acclimatization in Tingri. Overnight at hotel. BLD
 
Day 08 : Drive from Tingri to Base Camp 5000m
Overnight at tented camp BLD
 
Day 09 : Rest day at Base Camp for acclimatization
You can visit Rongbuk Monastery laying an eight kilometer (five mile) walk down the valley. Another sight not to miss is Tillman's Camp, an idyllic spot beside the majestic Central Rongbuk Glacier, which offers staggering views of the north side of Everest. While there’s plenty to see in the valley. Climbers should be adapting to the altitude, drinking plenty of fluids, resting, and enjoying the cuisine of the Sherpa cooking staff. Overnight at tented camp BLD
 
Day 10 : Base Camp to Middle Camp 5700m
The trek starts crossing the pebble floodplain of the Rongbuk River, then weaving along a path between the glacier and the valley side. After about 2 hours we reach a good viewpoint and turn steeply up to the left, leaving the main central Rongbuk valley. This path was discovered in 1922 and it was key to climbing the north side of Everest. After two hours leaving Rongbuk Valley, we make camp in a pleasant spot with plenty of space (5680m) located on the right bank, overlooking the river below, and is just short of the moraines and the toe of the glacier that lay ahead.  Overnight at tented camp BLD
 
Day 11 : Middle Camp to Advance Base Camp of Everest 6400m
The reappearance of Everest is a pleasant distraction during the final climb, and as you round the corner toward the advance base camp (6440m) the whole northeast ridge can be seen, from the Raphu La to the summit. The shimmering triangle of snow highlighting the summit four kilometers away and two up will issues its siren’s call until your footsteps cross it! Overnight at tented camp. BLD
 
Day 12-57 : Climbing Period for Mt. Everest North Face 8848m
Now it is a waiting game for the weather. Once the weather looks good then we will head up for our summit climb. Enough time needs to be allowed for bad weather and slow acclimatization. Depending upon conditions, four to five camps are set up above ABC. There are fixed ropes are placed on all steep sections. Requirement of a high camp depends upon the weather and other conditions. Summit day begins before midnight. We try to summit as a team but can break into two teams if necessary. After summiting, withdraw from the mountain removing all equipment and rubbish and taking it back to ABC.
 
Day 58 :  Return to Base Camp
Be back to the Base Camp. Equipments are carried by yaks. Prepare for tomorrow's departure from Tibet. Overnight at Tented Camp. BLD
 
Day 59 :  Leave Tibet
Drive to Nepal. Cross the Friendship Bridge by the afternoon. Camping or lodge stay at the Nepal Tibet border at Tatopani. BLD
 
Day 60:  Arrive in Kathmandu
Drive to Kathmandu. You’ll be welcomed in the hotel. (BL)
 
Day 61 : Rest and shopping day
Today you’ll have free in Kathmandu. You can have sightseeing in the cultural heritage inside Kathmandu, buy souveniers and thankas to take back home or anything as the day is free and easy. At evening we’ll host farewell-Celebration dinner with local typical cultural experience in Restaurant adjoining our crew that were in the expedition time with you. Overnight at hotel (BD)
 
Day 62 : Transfer for Final Departure
We transfer you to the airport for final departure 3 hours before flight schedule. Farewell and departure.
 
Note: The above itinerary is a guideline and standard suggested pattern chosen by majority of our customers. Your final itinerary will be customized according to your available time and requirements. The final itinerary duration and schedule may be reduced or extended depending on your time, budget, your fitness, class of service or any other preferences. The quote will be provided for you initial requirements and can be adjusted with mutual agreement should you require modifying these requirements.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Mount Everest North Face Expedition Cost Detail

Contact Us for the Quotation


Cost Includes

  • All airport/hotel/airport transfers
  • 5 nights hotel (4/5 star) in Kathmandu, BB plan
  • Everest Expedition (North face normal route) permit, Tibet visa, Travel and road permit.
  • Transportation ; Kathmandu/Zhangmu/Base Camp (and vice versa) by land cruiser/jeep for member & truck for equipment.
  • Full board in route to Tibet, Zhangmu, Nyalam, Tingri. Twin sharing accommodation and 3 times meal per day (BLD-Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner)
  • Common climbing equipments like necessary rope, ice bars, ice screws etc
  • 1 tent per climber of North face or similar for BC and ABC
  • Dining, Kitchen, Store tent, mattress and all camping facilities needed
  • Experienced and professional staff at BC : Base camp manager, cook, kitchen boy
  • Liaison officer and Interpreter
  • 3 Yak Per person's (50 KG) from BC to ABC and 2 Yaks on the way back to ABC to BC
  • 1 Yak for each ABC member & high altitude Sherpa BC to ABC to BC
  • Equipment allowance, wages, life, medical & life, medical & rescue insurance for all Nepali members.
  • Emergency oxygen, mask & regulator at ABC (use and pay)
  • Generator at Advance Base Camp for lighting and Charging.
  • Satellite phone in payable basis (per minute $ 5).
  • Immediate Rescue co-ordination (covered by your travel insurance)
  • Gamow Bag provided for the team
  • Welcome and farewell dinner

 


Cost Excludes

  • Air travel and international departure tax.
  • Entry visa and Re-entry visa for Nepal.
  • Lunch & dinner, hotel after 5 nights in Kathmandu.
  • All expenses of personal nature like bar bills, laundry, telephone etc.
  • Extra yak, per Yak's US$ 150.00 will be charge till to 50 kg load.
  • Insurance for travel, accident, medical, emergency evacuation & lost baggage.
  • Applicable permit fee & custom fee for SAT phone, filming camera, communications  equipment (if brought)
  • Garbage Deposit US$ 500.00 (sharing of the total person) and Deposit fee will be not refunded if the clients (climber) don't take back their garbage.
  • Climbing Bonus & summit bonus for climbing Sherpa (if you used sherpa), Tips for Base Camp Staff
  • All not mentioned in cost include part

 



Book This Trip

Autumn

  • MAXIMUM:

    62 Days
  • ENTRY:

    Zhangmu (Nyalam)
  • EXIT:

    Zhangmu (Nyalam)