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Mount Makalu Expedition

Mount Makalu Expedition

Makalu, 8463m is the fifth tallest mountain on Earth. Lying northeast region of Nepal, Makalu is a close neighbor to tallest peak Mt Everest. Makalu means “the Great Black One” due to its dark brooding appearance. Still, it is relatively less attempted mountain. So far, the number of individual climbers who have attempted Makalu is only some 300+. Therefore, if you wish to attempt Makalu, you need to have a lot of mountaineering experience including one attempt on an 8,000m.

Makalu was first climbed by a French party in 1955. The peak was first mapped and photographed from the Tibetan side by the 1921 British Everest reconnaissance. Hillary and Shipton photographed mount Makalu on the 1951 Everest reconnaissance. Hillary and others approached the peak a year later after the failure of their mount Cho Oyu 8201meter expedition.

Makalu has steep pitches and knife-edged ridges. The final ascent of the summit pyramid involves a technical ice and rock climbing. The route to Makalu Base Camp (4823m) involves a sustained steep slope with magnificent views of Makalu (8481m) to the north. Climbing Makalu is really a demanding attempt – it’s also the reason why Makalu has not been attempted like other peaks.

CLIMBING ROUTE DISCRIPTION
Makalu has many climbing routes via west ridge, west face, south face, southwest face and northwest buttress to reach the summit. The West Face has proved to be the most difficult.  After 7 failed attempts on this route, it was finally completed on May 21, 1997 by a Russian team.

The normal commercial route is past the Southeast Peak and along the Southeast ridge. The climb is straightforward but moderately technical with exposure on the SE Ridge. It requires some fixed rope set-up.

There are three camps above the base camp. Camp 1 (6,500m), Camp2 (7,300m) at the bottom of the Southeast Peak ridge and Camp 3 (7,900 m) at the beginning of the SE ridge.
Terrain encountered on course of ascents varies from glacier crossings to steep snow fields so good understanding of alpine climbing techniques is highly required.


Spring

  • MAXIMUM:

    50 Days
  • ENTRY:

    Biratnagar
  • EXIT:

    Tumlingtar
  • FIXED DEPARTURE:

    14 April, 2017

Mount Makalu Expedition Itinerary

  • Day 01 : Arrive in Kathmandu (1320m)
  • Day 02 : Expedition document application, Preparation, briefing for Expedition
  • 12 Apr Day 03 : Fly Kathmandu to Tumlingtar and drive to Chichila (1850m)
  • 13 Apr Day 04 : Trek to Num (1505m)
  • 14 Apr Day 05 : Trek to Seduwa (1530m)
  • 15 Apr Day 06 : Trek to Tashi Gaon (2065m)
  • 16 Apr Day 07 : Trek to Khongma (3562m)
  • 17 Apr Day 08 : Acclimatization day at Khongma (4200m)
  • 18 Apr Day 09 : Climb Shipton La and descend to Mumbuk (4200m)
  • 19 Apr Day 10 : Trek to Yangri Kharka (3610m)
  • 20 Apr Day 11 : Trek to Shershong (4650m)
  • 21 Apr Day 12 : Trek to Makalu Base Camp (4800m)
  • 22 Apr-19 May, Day 13-40 Climbing period for Makalu (8463m)
  • 20 May Day 41 : Pack Up BC Ready for Departure
  • 21 May Day 42 : Descend back to Yak Kharka
  • 22 May Day 43 : Trek to Mumbuk
  • 23 May Day 44 : Trek to Tashi Gaon
  • 24 May Day 45 : Trek to Num
  • 25 May Day 46 : Trek to Chichila
  • 26 May Day 47 : Trek to Tumlingtar.
  • 27 May Day 48 : Fly Tumlingtar to Kathmandu
  • 28 May Day 49 : Rest in Kathmandu
  • 29 May Day 50 : Departure to your country

DAY 01   Arrive in Kathmandu (1320m)
Arrival in Kathmandu. You’ll meet Ramdung Expedition representative displaying your name at airport and you’ll be escort upto the hotel. After check in, you can either take a rest, hang around in the city, visit our office; it all depends upon your interests and condition. In the evening we will organize a "Welcome Dinner" at an excellent traditional Nepalese Restaurant where you will enjoy a Nepalese cultural program as well as a fine meal. O/N Hotel, Dinner (D)

Day 02-03 : Expedition document application, Preparation, briefing for Expedition
These day we are busy for briefing about expedition, documentation, visa application, last minute shopping and preparation for departure to expedition. We’ll also introduce to our Nepali crew coming with you for expedition. Hotel. BLD

Day 04 : Fly Kathmandu to Tumlingtar and drive to Chichila (1850m)
Depending on the schedule reporting time, our staff will pick you up at the hotel. Then a 50 minute flight from Kathmandu landing on a bumpy grass airstrip at Tumlingtar (400m). From Tumlingtar, it takes about 3 hours bumpy road jeep drive takes into our first camp at Chichila. O/N Camping (BLD)

Day 05 : Trek to Num  (1505m)
A moderately paced walk through the picturesque villages and lush mountain forests. A ridge line with great views on both side and perched on the end is Num. Thunder and lightning make interesting displays in Num evenings. O/N Camping (BLD)

Day 06 : Trek to Seduwa  (1530m)
A steep descent down through the forests and terraced plots of land takes to Arun Khola. Then winding ascents up the other side again. Often quite hot - the forest on the valley sides offer a bit of shade. Makalu National Park starts and we register our permits. Camping right at the top of the village (4-5hrs) O/N Camping (BLD)

Day 07 :  Trek to Tashi Gaon (2065m)
Ascend the ridge bounded by the Ipsuwa Khola on the west and Kasuwa Khola to the east. Crossing the hillside through quiet villages and passing by small paddy fields, we reach the village of Tashi Gaon.

Day 08 :  Trek  to Khongma (3562m)
Trek upwards towards Khongma. Khongma is the last stop before crossing the Shipton La and dropping down into the upper sections of the remote Barun Valley. The green forests are replaced by scrub and rhododendrons that cover the lower reaches of the mountains. O/N Camping (BLD)

Day 09 : Acclimatization day at Khongma (4200m)
Rest and acclimatization day allows our bodies to catch up with us before gaining more height. The following day we take on crossing of the Shipton La. O/N Camping (BLD)

Day 10 : Climb Shipton La and descend to Mumbuk (4200m)
Climb towards the summit of the Shipton La which takes a few hours to reach. After the lake Kalo Pokhari, pass over the Keke La at 4,152m. An easy descent towards Mumbuk. Marvelous views of Chamlang 7,319m, Peak 6 (6,524m) and Peak 7 (6,758m). Climbing high and sleeping low gives the opportunity for acclimatization. O/N Camping (BLD)

Day 11 : Trek to Yangri Kharka (3610m)
A further descent from Mumbuk through the Rhododendron forest leads to the Baruni river and the upper reaches of the valley. A pleasant walk, gaining altitude slowly, until we arrive at Yangri Kharka situated at the base of the valley. O/N Camping (BLD)

Day 12 : Trek to Shershong (4650m)
The trail now climbs up the valley, through yak pastures and boulder fields. O/N Camping (BLD)

Day 13 : Trek to Makalu Base Camp (4800m)
Trek onwards and gain height. With Makalu on the left and Chamlang on the right, continue on until reaching the Makalu base camp at 4,800m. O/N Camping (BLD)

Day 14-40 : Climbing period for Makalu (8463m)
Climbing period for Makalu begins now on. We do not provide a day-to-day itinerary for the climb period, as this will be determined by the expedition leader and members. Guides will take a flexible approach based on what fits with climbers’ and their own experience. Typically, the team will spend a few days at the base camp organizing food, practicing rope skills, and acclimatizing before moving above the base camp. From base camp, there will be 3 camps set up until you reach summit. Base camp is in comfortable position on rock and protected from winds. Make sure to acclimatize well before you start climbing higher altitude. Enough time needs to be allowed for bad weather and slow acclimatization.

Summit push will be normally at the mid night. So that team reached at top early in the morning. Catch breathtaking sunrise and surrounding view then get back to base camp before getting affected by heat.

After summiting, withdraw from the mountain removing all equipment and rubbish and taking it back to Base camp.

Day 41 :  Pack Up BC Ready for Departure
Time to get the gear organized and the porters loaded up ready for tomorrow's departure.

Day 42 : Descend back to Yak Kharka
Descend back down the valley and take our last glimpse of Makalu before turning the corner and eventually reaching Yak Kharka. O/N Camping (BLD)

Day 43 : Trek to Mumbuk
Continuing with our descent we eventually reach Mumbuk. The greeneries below provide a welcome relief from the snowy landscape on the mountain. O/N Camping (BLD)

Day 44 : Trek to Tashi Gaon
Back across the Shipton La, and then cutting across the hillside to eventually reach the Sherpa town of Tashi Gaon. O/N Camping (BLD)

Day 45 : Trek to Num
We follow our footsteps all the way back down to the river. Climb back up the opposite side of the valley to Num. O/N Camping (BLD)

Day 46 : Trek to Chichila
Easy walking to Chichila.  O/N Camping (BLD)

Day 47 : Trek to Tumlingtar.
The final return leg of the trek will see us overnight at Tumlingtar, ready for an early departure to Kathmandu the following day. O/N Camping (BLD)

Day 48 : Fly Tumlingtar to Kathmandu
We complete the journey with a flight to Kathmandu. We will return to the welcome haven of the Hotel. Free time for rest. O/N Hotel

Day 49 : Rest in Kathmandu
Today you’ll have free in Kathmandu. You can have sightseeing in the cultural heritage inside Kathmandu, buy souvenirs and thankas to take back home or anything as the day is free and easy. O/N Hotel (BD)

Day 50 : Departure to your country
The journey within the mountains of Nepal comes to an end today. At last approximately 3 hours before our scheduled flight, a representative from Ramdung Expedition escorts you to the airport. Farewell…(B)


Mount Makalu Expedition Cost Detail

Contact Us for the Quotation


Cost Includes

  • All airport/hotel/airport transfers
  • 5 nights hotel (4/5 star) in Kathmandu, bb plan
  • Mt. Makalu expedition permit, Makalu-barun area fee and necessary permit fee. 
  •  Flight : Kathmandu/Tumlingtar/Kathmandu, Domestic air tax
  • 50kg weight is allowed per member for expedition
  • Necessary porters and mules for carrying equipment & loads
  • Twin sharing accommodation in lodge/teahouse while trekking
  • 3 times meals per day, teas & coffees in trekking & base camp days
  • 1 tent per climber of North face or similar for Base Camp
  • Dining, Kitchen, Store tent, mattress and all camping facilities needed in BC
  •  Experienced and professional staff at BC : Base camp manager, cook, kitchen boy
  •  Government liaisons officer
  • Equipment allowance, wages, life, medical & life, medical & rescue insurance for all Nepali members.
  • Emergency oxygen, mask & regulator at ABC (use and pay)
  • Immediate Rescue co-ordination (covered by your travel insurance)
  • Generator or solar panel for charging & lighting in Base camp
  • Satellite phone on pay call basis (1min = $ 3)
  • Welcome dinner

Cost Excludes

  • International flight ticket, taxes and visas
  • Lunch & dinner, hotel after 5 nights in Kathmandu
  • Personal trekking & climbing equipment
  • Excess personal climber baggage transport
  • All expenses of personal nature like bar bills, laundry, telephone etc.
  • Insurance for travel, accident, medical, emergency evacuation & lost baggage.
  • Applicable permit fee & custom fee for SAT phone, filming camera, communications
  • Equipment (if brought)
  • Climbing Bonus & summit bonus for climbing Sherpa (if you used Sherpa), Tips for Base Camp Staff
  • All not mentioned in cost include part

 



Book This Trip

Autumn

  • MAXIMUM:

    50 Days
  • ENTRY:

    Biratnagar
  • EXIT:

    Tumlingtar
  • FIXED DEPARTURE:

    14 April, 2017

Mount Makalu Expedition Itinerary

  • Day 01 : Arrive in Kathmandu (1320m)
  • Day 02 : Expedition document application, Preparation, briefing for Expedition
  • 01st Sep, 2017 Day 03 : Fly Kathmandu to Tumlingtar and drive to Chichila (1850m)
  • 02nd Sep, 2017: Day 04 : Trek to Num (1505m)
  • 03rd Sep, 2017: Day 05 : Trek to Seduwa (1530m)
  • 04th Sep, 2017: Day 06 : Trek to Tashi Gaon (2065m)
  • 05th Sep, 2017: Day 07 : Trek to Khongma (3562m)
  • 06th Sep, 2017: Day 08 : Acclimatization day at Khongma (4200m)
  • 07th Sep, 2017: Day 09 : Climb Shipton La and descend to Mumbuk (4200m)
  • 08th Sep, 2017: Day 10 : Trek to Yangri Kharka (3610m)
  • 09th Sep, 2017: Day 11 : Trek to Shershong (4650m)
  • 10th Sep, 2017: Day 12 : Trek to Makalu Base Camp (4800m)
  • 11th Sep,-08th Oct, 2017: Day 13-40 Climbing period for Makalu (8463m)
  • 09th Oct, 2017Day 41 : Pack Up BC Ready for Departure
  • 10th Oct, 2017Day 42 : Descend back to Yak Kharka
  • 11th Oct, 2017Day 43 : Trek to Mumbuk
  • 12th Oct, 2017Day 44 : Trek to Tashi Gaon
  • 13th Oct, 2017Day 45 : Trek to Num
  • 14th Oct, 2017Day 46 : Trek to Chichila
  • 15th Oct, 2017Day 47 : Trek to Tumlingtar.
  • 16th Oct, 2017Day 48 : Fly Tumlingtar to Kathmandu
  • 17th Oct, 2017Day 49 : Rest in Kathmandu
  • 08th Oct, 2017Day 50 : Departure to your country

DAY 01   Arrive in Kathmandu (1320m)
Arrival in Kathmandu. You’ll meet Ramdung Expedition representative displaying your name at airport and you’ll be escort upto the hotel. After check in, you can either take a rest, hang around in the city, visit our office; it all depends upon your interests and condition. In the evening we will organize a "Welcome Dinner" at an excellent traditional Nepalese Restaurant where you will enjoy a Nepalese cultural program as well as a fine meal. O/N Hotel, Dinner (D)

Day 02-03 : Expedition document application, Preparation, briefing for Expedition
These day we are busy for briefing about expedition, documentation, visa application, last minute shopping and preparation for departure to expedition. We’ll also introduce to our Nepali crew coming with you for expedition. Hotel. BLD

Day 04 : Fly Kathmandu to Tumlingtar and drive to Chichila (1850m)
Depending on the schedule reporting time, our staff will pick you up at the hotel. Then a 50 minute flight from Kathmandu landing on a bumpy grass airstrip at Tumlingtar (400m). From Tumlingtar, it takes about 3 hours bumpy road jeep drive takes into our first camp at Chichila. O/N Camping (BLD)

Day 05 : Trek to Num  (1505m)
A moderately paced walk through the picturesque villages and lush mountain forests. A ridge line with great views on both side and perched on the end is Num. Thunder and lightning make interesting displays in Num evenings. O/N Camping (BLD)

Day 06 : Trek to Seduwa  (1530m)
A steep descent down through the forests and terraced plots of land takes to Arun Khola. Then winding ascents up the other side again. Often quite hot - the forest on the valley sides offer a bit of shade. Makalu National Park starts and we register our permits. Camping right at the top of the village (4-5hrs) O/N Camping (BLD)

Day 07 :  Trek to Tashi Gaon (2065m)
Ascend the ridge bounded by the Ipsuwa Khola on the west and Kasuwa Khola to the east. Crossing the hillside through quiet villages and passing by small paddy fields, we reach the village of Tashi Gaon.

Day 08 :  Trek  to Khongma (3562m)
Trek upwards towards Khongma. Khongma is the last stop before crossing the Shipton La and dropping down into the upper sections of the remote Barun Valley. The green forests are replaced by scrub and rhododendrons that cover the lower reaches of the mountains. O/N Camping (BLD)

Day 09 : Acclimatization day at Khongma (4200m)
Rest and acclimatization day allows our bodies to catch up with us before gaining more height. The following day we take on crossing of the Shipton La. O/N Camping (BLD)

Day 10 : Climb Shipton La and descend to Mumbuk (4200m)
Climb towards the summit of the Shipton La which takes a few hours to reach. After the lake Kalo Pokhari, pass over the Keke La at 4,152m. An easy descent towards Mumbuk. Marvelous views of Chamlang 7,319m, Peak 6 (6,524m) and Peak 7 (6,758m). Climbing high and sleeping low gives the opportunity for acclimatization. O/N Camping (BLD)

Day 11 : Trek to Yangri Kharka (3610m)
A further descent from Mumbuk through the Rhododendron forest leads to the Baruni river and the upper reaches of the valley. A pleasant walk, gaining altitude slowly, until we arrive at Yangri Kharka situated at the base of the valley. O/N Camping (BLD)

Day 12 : Trek to Shershong (4650m)
The trail now climbs up the valley, through yak pastures and boulder fields. O/N Camping (BLD)

Day 13 : Trek to Makalu Base Camp (4800m)
Trek onwards and gain height. With Makalu on the left and Chamlang on the right, continue on until reaching the Makalu base camp at 4,800m. O/N Camping (BLD)

Day 14-40 : Climbing period for Makalu (8463m)
Climbing period for Makalu begins now on. We do not provide a day-to-day itinerary for the climb period, as this will be determined by the expedition leader and members. Guides will take a flexible approach based on what fits with climbers’ and their own experience. Typically, the team will spend a few days at the base camp organizing food, practicing rope skills, and acclimatizing before moving above the base camp. From base camp, there will be 3 camps set up until you reach summit. Base camp is in comfortable position on rock and protected from winds. Make sure to acclimatize well before you start climbing higher altitude. Enough time needs to be allowed for bad weather and slow acclimatization.

Summit push will be normally at the mid night. So that team reached at top early in the morning. Catch breathtaking sunrise and surrounding view then get back to base camp before getting affected by heat.

After summiting, withdraw from the mountain removing all equipment and rubbish and taking it back to Base camp.

Day 41 :  Pack Up BC Ready for Departure
Time to get the gear organized and the porters loaded up ready for tomorrow's departure.

Day 42 : Descend back to Yak Kharka
Descend back down the valley and take our last glimpse of Makalu before turning the corner and eventually reaching Yak Kharka. O/N Camping (BLD)

Day 43 : Trek to Mumbuk
Continuing with our descent we eventually reach Mumbuk. The greeneries below provide a welcome relief from the snowy landscape on the mountain. O/N Camping (BLD)

Day 44 : Trek to Tashi Gaon
Back across the Shipton La, and then cutting across the hillside to eventually reach the Sherpa town of Tashi Gaon. O/N Camping (BLD)

Day 45 : Trek to Num
We follow our footsteps all the way back down to the river. Climb back up the opposite side of the valley to Num. O/N Camping (BLD)

Day 46 : Trek to Chichila
Easy walking to Chichila.  O/N Camping (BLD)

Day 47 : Trek to Tumlingtar.
The final return leg of the trek will see us overnight at Tumlingtar, ready for an early departure to Kathmandu the following day. O/N Camping (BLD)

Day 48 : Fly Tumlingtar to Kathmandu
We complete the journey with a flight to Kathmandu. We will return to the welcome haven of the Hotel. Free time for rest. O/N Hotel

Day 49 : Rest in Kathmandu
Today you’ll have free in Kathmandu. You can have sightseeing in the cultural heritage inside Kathmandu, buy souvenirs and thankas to take back home or anything as the day is free and easy. O/N Hotel (BD)

Day 50 : Departure to your country
The journey within the mountains of Nepal comes to an end today. At last approximately 3 hours before our scheduled flight, a representative from Ramdung Expedition escorts you to the airport. Farewell…(B)


Mount Makalu Expedition Cost Detail

  • Contact us for the Quotation

Cost Includes

  • All airport/hotel/airport transfers
  • 5 nights hotel (4/5 star) in Kathmandu, bb plan
  • Mt. Makalu expedition permit, Makalu-barun area fee and necessary permit fee.
  • Flight : Kathmandu/Tumlingtar/Kathmandu, Domestic air tax
  • 50kg weight is allowed per member for expedition
  • Necessary porters and mules for carrying equipment & loads
  • Twin sharing accommodation in lodge/teahouse while trekking
  • 3 times meals per day, teas & coffees in trekking & base camp days
  • Common climbing equipments like necessary rope, ice bars, ice screws etc
  • 1 tent per climber of North face or similar for Base Camp
  • Dining, Kitchen, Store tent, mattress and all camping facilities needed in BC
  • Experienced and professional staff at BC : Base camp manager, cook, kitchen boy
  • Government liaisons officer
  • Equipment allowance, wages, life, medical & life, medical & rescue insurance for all Nepali members.
  • Emergency oxygen, mask & regulator at ABC (use and pay)
  • Immediate Rescue co-ordination (covered by your travel insurance)
  • Generator or solar panel for charging & lighting in Base camp
  • Satellite phone on pay call basis (1min = $ 5)
  • Walkie – talkie set

 


Cost Excludes

  • International flight ticket, taxes and visas
  • Lunch & dinner, hotel after 5 nights in Kathmandu
  • Personal trekking & climbing equipment
  • Excess personal climber baggage transport
  • All expenses of personal nature like bar bills, laundry, telephone etc.
  • Insurance for travel, accident, medical, emergency evacuation & lost baggage.
  • applicable permit fee & custom fee for SAT phone, filming camera, communications equipment (if brought)
  • Climbing Bonus & summit bonus for climbing Sherpa (if you used Sherpa), Tips for Base Camp Staff
  • All not mentioned in cost include part

 



Book This Trip